The Crus: Southern Rhône

Beaumes-de-Venise

Once in a great while, you can actually help the environment by drinking great wine. This happy convergence occurs rarely, and only in a few places: Beaumes-de-Venise is one of them. Long renowned for its sweet wines, the region now produces some of the finest dry reds in the Rhône Valley, thanks to its earth-friendly standards. The low-yield vineyards are entirely hand-harvested, and exceedingly well tended: Grape-growers in Beaumes-de-Venise even care for the woodlands outside their vineyards, just to ensure that the region’s overall biodiversity never suffers. This keen respect for the land has done much for the quality of the wines: In 2005, Beaumes-de-Venise was honored with Cru status for its dry reds.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The “Pope’s new castle” might not be new anymore, but it continues to represent one of the finest appellations in the Rhône Valley. This appellation is teeming with old vines, which give its rich, full-bodied, highly sought-after reds the ability to age for decades; great Châteauneuf-du-Pape rivals the first growths of Bordeaux for longevity, complexity, and sheer pleasure. These bottles reveal new complexities with each passing year, but many are approachable and vivacious as soon as they are released. If you want to hedge your bets, buy two bottles: you can drink one tonight and lay the second one down in your cellar.

Gigondas

Gigondas reds demand to be noticed. Most of them contain a high percentage of Grenache; this fleshy red grape makes them rich in body, high in alcohol, and heavy on smoky/roasted/grilled aromas. The top estates add a healthy dose of Syrah to the blend, giving their wines the ability to age for years. This style, along with their high quality, makes the reds of Gigondas an excellent alternative to Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Lirac

Don’t cellar these bottles: Lirac is for drinking. Think young berries, fresh flowers, and minimal tannins; these reds should be consumed immediately, and with great relish. It’s not just a red wine appellation, either. Lirac rosés are nothing short of phenomenal, but they haven’t received as much hype as the rosés of Tavel. Unjust as this may be, it means that Lirac rosés are excellent values.

Tavel

Rosé has been getting more serious lately. For devotees of Tavel, this is both welcome and expected: Tavel is the original serious rosé. Even back when “rosé” meant White Zinfandel, Tavel was an appellation to be reckoned with. No red or white wines are produced in this appellation; Tavel is always dry rosé. The wines are relatively high in alcohol, but not so serious that they require much aging. Most Tavel should be enjoyed soon after its release. This is rosé, after all, and its youthful, fresh quality is still the best reason to drink it.

Vacqueyras

A recent addition to the venerable group of Rhône Valley Crus, the Vacqueyras appellation makes red wines for early drinking. Make no mistake, though: These are serious wines, with ample body and big, ripe fruit flavors. They’ll prove a worthy match to rich, buttery dishes.

Vinsobres

“Sober wine”? Whoever named this region knew one thing: The wines were so good, they’d speak for themselves. In fact, that is exactly what has happened. In 2005, Vinsobres was promoted from a Côtes du Rhône-Village to a full-fledged Rhône Cru. Syrah grapes are used in the reds to add structure, character, and ageworthiness. Wine made in Vinsobres is as good as ever, and it is clearly poised to catch on with the international market.